Around Fremantle

At the end of February, we moved to Fremantle, a port city about 30 min outside of Perth. It’s a little crunchier and more diverse, a little more patchouli in the air and a few more drum circles on the streets and beaches. We like it. It reminds us a little bit of Oakland and Berkeley.

The view from the Roundhouse, a former jail and the oldest public building in Western Australia. To the left, Bather’s beach, and beyond that the fishing boat harbour about a 10 minute walk from our house– I sometimes wake up early enough to catch some of them going out in the morning.
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A gentleman who struck up a conversation with me before going on a morning swim out to a lighthouse, about a kilometer away in what I consider to be freezing cold water. Good on him, as they say here. And a little dog owned by some people who were sleeping rough near the beach that day. This was one of the few moments when he was not barking at me.
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How do you tell if a starfish is dead? We couldn’t tell, so we threw this one back.
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Simultaneously one of my most favorite and least favorite features of Australian swimming beaches, the pontoon. Sean dislocated his shoulder jumping off one of these in rough water earlier this year, but jumping off the pontoon is still fun.
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Most happening venue on a Saturday night– fishing pier not to far from where we live. Note the danger sign at the beginning of the pier, barring anyone from going past that point. One of the funniest things about Australia are all the signs forbidding you to do things, usually right next to someone doing that very thing.
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Our first party in our back patio, a Cinco de Mayo party with a pinata named Silvio (so named by a number of Italians present). Silvio was done in nicely by an Italian.
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Blindfolded and being spun around. Our neighbor kids, who like to climb around our walls, were also watching on.
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One of our first nights in our backyard.
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View to the Antarctic

Back in November, we went down to the southern coast of Australia, where we spent a lot of time looking out over the Southern Ocean (aka Antarctic Ocean)– only a 4.5 hour drive from Perth, but such a different body of water than our Indian Ocean– freezing, violent, and incredibly beautiful.

Rebs at a stretch of coast near Elephant Cove.
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Misery Beach, so called because detritus from the whaling station near by used to wash ashore here. But no longer.
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Some “God Light” at the end of the day at Conspicuous Cliffs & beach.
Conspicuous Cliffs and Beach near Walpole, WA, Australia
Conspicuous Cliffs and Beach near Walpole, WA, Australia
Conspicuous Cliffs and Beach near Walpole, WA, Australia
Conspicuous Cliffs and Beach near Walpole, WA, Australia
Conspicuous Cliffs and Beach near Walpole, WA, Australia

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Gold Rush

We recently ventured out to Kalgoorlie, one of Western Australia’s old mining towns, and probably the one that’s most functional as a town today. This state is dotted with tons of mining towns that have turned into depressing backwaters or ghost towns nearly overnight after the mining companies pack up their bags. Part of the thrill of going to Kalgoorlie is the 6+ hour drive which takes you through Australia’s wheat belt and through incredibly beautiful eucalyptus woodlands.

First place we stayed the night was the Ettamogah Pub, which is based on a famous Aussie cartoon pub, as we were leaving, a man named Darren was gearing up to drive his motorcycle across the some 2,400 km across the Nullarbar Plains:
Ettamogah

Our vehicle was a tad less adventurous– we made good use of our Outback toaster oven (i.e. the dashboard of our car, the trusty Brick House).
toaster oven

Wheat farms and gum trees (eucalyptus) in Kellerbin.
kellerbin

The Palace hotel, where we stayed has the price of gold constantly updating on a ticker on the front.
The Palace

Across the street, a “skimpies” bar, where the bartenders serve beer in, yes, very skimpy clothing. In the background, a couple of blokes in the ubiquitous orange hi-vis (high visibility) work gear.
skimpies

On the outskirts of town, the Superpit, the biggest open cut mine in Australia, made up of many small gold mines.
superpit

A favorite scene in Australia (and for that matter parts of Ethiopia and the Bay Area), gum trees lit up in the golden hour:
golden hour trees

A few more pics click HERE

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Malaysia dining: Jalan Alor and beyond

Sean & I ate our way through Kuala Lumpur and Malacca in early June. Singapore and Malaysia have amazing “hawker centres”– basically an outdoor, more chaotic, and far more delicious version of a food court. The Singapore hawker centres tend to be a little more sanitized (both figuratively and literally). Jalan Alor, one of the Malaysia’s best known hawker centres, is spread along a street in what we were later informed by a Reuters colleague is the seedier part of town. The satay was still great.

Some pics below of Jalan Alor and a couple other places:

Malay satay

Malay satay 2

Squid

A belligerent Italian tourist, who may look familiar to some of you:
Sean the Italian

The drab face of this apartment building, which Southeast Asia is chock full of, seemed to glow at night (I guess that’s what some people call light pollution…)
Apartment glow

Didn’t have the guts to try the frog leg porridge here:
Looking up

Afternoon beer and bao on the roadside after we missed our train back to Kuala Lumpur Sentral:
bao and beer

Giovanna’s favorite “aromatic” (ie, stinky) durian fruit:
durian

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Ningaloo Reef!

For Easter 2012, which coincided with our anniversary, we headed up to the Ningaloo Reef, in our little red car, the Brick House. It’s a 1,265 km and 14 hour trip each way from Perth and we did it in two days, stopping in the banana-growing center of Western Australia, Carnavaron. Along the way we listened to a book on tape Dirt Music by Tim Winton, one of our favorite Australian authors. His book Cloud Street has been made into a television series and is considered to be one of the Australian greats. Rebs recommends his book Breath.

Coral in Ningaloo

Ningaloo is the largest fringing (ie, close to land) reef in Australia (the Great Barrier Reef is farther out and is a system of reefs). The big draw in Ningaloo is whale sharks, the world’s largest fish. They eat plankton, not humans, and therefore you can swim near them, which we did. We (and some other people) are the tiny humans to the left in this photo:

Whale shark Ningaloo

Pics of our whole trip here:

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China Train Adventures

Last July, we went on an overnight train ride from Xian (home of the terracotta warriors) to Beijing. We spent a really long time chatting with a Chinese cop who took a liking to Sean’s parents, but not to my camera, so no photos of him, but a few photos of the train ride.

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Pandan Island, Mindoro

Pandan Island resort is a privately owned island off the southwestern coast of Mindoro in the Philippines. The owners have dedicated themselves to preserving the island and the green sea turtles who feed just off its main beach from over-development through the operation of an eco-resort. Small, but comfortable huts with salt-water showers are paired with the most perfect hammocks strung between palm trees along the beach. In the evenings, the buffet of French-Philippine food knocks the socks off of a snorkeled out traveler. We loved our stay.

A view from the main beach of Pandan Island:

R on the boat to Pandan Island from Mindoro:

As you can see, getting in was easy. The return leg, at 3AM, guided by a headlamp and the full moon was a bit different. We ran aground a sandbar in the dark and all had to jump out and keep the boat from tipping over. Thank you D for being the first one overboard when crisis struck!

The beach was literally made up of the coral reef in a state of constant grinding into sand, here’s Sean looking at a pretty piece of coral…
Sean with Coral

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Manila

Flying in or out of Manila, you can’t help but be struck by the massive sprawl of it. It looks like Los Angeles except that there is not one clear high-rising downtown. Instead, as you learn driving for hours across the chaotic and beautiful sprawl of urbanity and tropical landscape, there are four, five, six, maybe more urban centers complete with tall buildings and concrete highways. It can look ugly until you see the creative throb of the people and then catch your first Manila Bay sunset. The yellow hues seem made for the expanse of water, fisheries of long, slim bangus (milkfish) forming another sprawl out into the South China Sea.

Here is Mitzi on a rainy day at Fort Santiago at the mouth of the Pasig river by Manila Bay
Mitzi in the clouds

Below left: each of the myriad jeepneys (originally modified US military jeeps, lengthened into public buses) across Manila provides its own look, name and take on the world as well as its own point to point route.

Below right: the day after we got to Manila was the big boxing match in Las Vegas of the Philippines’ national hero and champion Manny Pacquiao. The fight was being watched live on a jumbotron in the morning at Araneta Coliseum, the site of the famous Thrilla in Manila between Muhammad Ali and Joe Frazier. It seemed the whole country was watching or listening on the radio. Sean posing in the stadium with a commemorative sign from the Thrilla in Manila.

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The Glassy Water of Apo Reef

It is not an exaggeration to say that this was the best snorkeling trip of our lives. After a few days of cloudy water brought on by a passing typhoon, the sun opened up over our little boat on our last day in Mindoro. The hour and a half ride out to the reef was ideal for napping (Rebs) and spotting flying fish in the otherwise mirror-like waters (everyone else). Above, Sean enjoys standing on the outrigger of the boat as we lay down anchor at Apo Reef. The first jump into the crystal clear, deep blue water was like diving into an aquarium.

D+M were nice enough to come with us even though they’d been before and showed up around the reef with Mitzi seeing giant clamshells pretty much everywhere. Another highlight: reef sharks (!) (they are not the Jaws type sharks which we have in Australia, otherwise we would have been out of the water faster than you can say snorkel)

Looking for flying fish on the water on the way back…

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Underwater Camera Skin!

On Pandan Island we finally tried out our “new” underwater skin for the small camera. Couldn’t dive with it, but still had plenty of fun when the water was clear, as it was at Apo Reef. The middle photo shows fish swarming over the leftovers from lunch that the boat crew tossed overboard. Note the swordfish with the funky noses!

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